Compass Box Whisky Co are purveyors of blended Scotch whisky. Each product in their core range aims to give
consumers a glimpse into one particular style within the spectrum of flavours
offered by Scotch whisky – light, delicate, smoky and full flavoured. Compass
Box buys different styles of whisky from different distilleries and blends them
to create a desired flavour profile in each of their core products, which
include Oak Cross, Asyla, Spice Tree, Great King Street Artists Blend, Peat
Monster and Hedonism.
Compass Box Hedonism is a
blended grain whisky that showcases creativity and a fresh approach to Scotch
whisky, at least in living memory. A century ago blended grain whiskies were
more common. These days the shelves of liquor stores are dominated by either malt
whisky, which is made from malted barley, or blended whisky, which is made from
blending malt whisky with grain whisky. For a very long time the vast majority of grain whisky has disappeared into the bottles of blended whiskies. This all started in 1831 when Aeneas Coffey invented a still that
allowed for the continuous process of distillation and this led to the
production of grain whisky, which, being lighter in style to malt whisky, tempered
some of the fire of malt whisky and therefore malt/grain blends appealed to a
wider market. Grain whisky is usually
designed to be as neutral as possible so that it can balance the fiery kick of
malt whisky and it is this grain whisky that gives grain whisky its reputation
as boring, uninteresting and unspectacular. Some blends also contain grain
whisky that smells very young and this contributes to the bad name of grain
whisky. Times have changed, and while blended whiskies continue to dominate the
market, single malts have become more popular. Rising with the tide is grain whisky,
and heeding to this demand is Compass Box with the release of Hedonism – a whisky
that is designed to be a grain whisky and not blended with malt whisky, which means
this blended grain is comprised of lovely aged whiskies that, when blended, are
rich, complex, full flavoured and, frankly, delicious.
The whiskies used in Hedonism have matured in 100% first-fill
American oak barrels or rejuvenated American oak Hogsheads, and are typically sourced from the
distilleries Cameron Bridge, Carsebridge, Cambus, Port Dundas or Dumbarton. Hedonism
is the kind of whisky you want to selfishly drink alone – smooth, rich and complex
with lots of depth to explore. The spicy fire from the wood and firmer grain
(rye comes to mind) seems to be softened by the caramel, toffee and sweet
vanillas from the softer grains as the anise seed snap of unfiltered
full-flavoured vodka common to more neutral grain distillate melds with an array of sweetened
tea leaves, wood tannins and bourbon themed notes of wood vanilla, dried fruit,
raisin and chocolate that commonly occur when grain whisky, such as corn, wheat
or rye, is matured in American oak. This is a hugely enjoyable whisky that is crafted with lots of creativity and clearly intended for the spirit lover. It is bottled at 43% ABV and non-chill filtered
with natural colour, and at £54 or $110 it is an affordable glimpse into a rare
blend of older grain whiskies.
Nose: Toasted coconut macaroon with creamy vanilla and the whiff of a classic
cream layered birthday cake melds with caramel and light strands of toffee
layered over mashmallows. Heavier wood notes bring chocolate as notes of red
pepper seeds combine with the most interesting marriage of bourbon, the dry sugary
gusts from English style pot still rum and the anise seed kick of a sublime unfiltered
vodka. The bourbon notes are entirely understandable, because bourbon is
essentially a grain whisky made from at least 51% corn and then matured in
newly made American oak.
Taste: The entry is smooth, sweet, creamy and bourbon themed with raisin and
dried fruit as the grain itself brings spice and soothing caramels and toffee
interlaced with green tea sweetened with barley sugar, polenta, anise seed and
some fine hints of high quality full-flavoured and unfiltered vodka (the way it
should be, with only the best “cuts” from the distilling run rather than filtered
through mountains of charcoal). Then the oak kicks in, and a flurry of spices
ignite on the palate with chocolate, vanilla, honeyed oats and the twist of
wood tannins.
Finish: The lingering taste of sweet ethanol lingers with bitter green tea ice
cream, that grain filled full flavoured Eastern European vodka,
earl grey, bitter chocolate and toasty American oak.
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