Preference for single malts in the whisky drinking world is
undeniable even though most of the whisky sold worldwide are blends like the
iconic Johnnie Walker Black Label. This post will explain a little about the
difference between single malts, “vatted malts” and blends while providing
reviews about four very special “vatted” malts in my growing collection. I could only find a favourite after a blind tasting, and it was Johnnie Walker Green Label followed very closely by Sheep Dip "Old Hebridean" 1990 and Double Barrel.
My collection includes four “vatted malts” which have come
to be my favourite whiskies. These are:
- Sheep Dip Old Hebridean 1990 Vintage;
- Douglas Laing Double Barrell Bowmore andHighland Park;
- Johnnie Walker Green Label 15 Year Old; and
- Big Peat.
After purchasing what I think are the last few bottles of
Old Hebridean and Double Barrel Bowmore and Highland Park left in Australia
(they’re sold out absolutely everywhere I’ve looked on Australian, British and
American retailer websites and in store in Melbourne), I hurried home to take
the above picture. Over time, my appreciation for vatted malts has grown
considerably. These four “vatted malts” are all described in Jim Murray’s
Whisky Bible 2012 as “liquid gold” having all scored over 94/100. I need to
take my time with this post and savour it! Now, so that I can stop encasing the
phrase in double quotes, what is a “vatted malt”!?
A “vatted malt” is now commonly known as a “blended malt”. According
to the Scotch Whisky Association, a “blended malt” is a “blend of Single Malt
Scotch Whiskies, which have been distilled at more than one distillery.” This
is different to a single malt, which originates from one distillery, and a
blend, which which contains malt and grain whisky.
Now let’s call the “vatted malt” a “blended malt”, to keep
the Scotch Whisky Association happy. If you think about it, a blended malt basically allows single malts from different distilleries to “marry” together
into one whisky. With that union comes a marriage of flavours from different
distilleries and, with some blended malts, regions. To fully appreciate blended
malts, though, I would gain an appreciate for single malts and their basic
characteristics (like the peat of Islay whisky from Ardbeg, Caol Ila, Lagavulin
etc, the smokiness of Talisker, the sweetness of Dalwhinnie or Dalmore, the
fireside peat of Highland Park etc). In that way, tasting blended malts can be
an experience in which you can tease out the elements of the blend and explore
how the marriage has given the whisky invigoration and uniqueness.
Blended or vatted malts (especially by independent
producers) are seen in a less romantic light as single malts and luxury blends, and
so these are not as popular. This just comes down to consumer perceptions of
branding, and, for lack of a better word, irrational snobbery. As I wrote about
Johnnie Walker Blue Label, blends can offer quite a spectacular whisky
experience that can leave a whisky drinker wondering what all the fuss is about
concerning single malts. Of course a whisky drinker’s palate develops over
time, but the value of whisky is defined by subjective taste and objective
value such as rarity, age, production difficulties etc. All this taken into account,
it seems irrational to conclude single malts are better than blends simply
because they come from the one distillery. Does it really matter?
This blog has reviewed of each of these whiskies, so please have a read of these reviews by clicking on their names above.
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