Sunday 30 June 2013

Port Charlotte The Peat Project


Spirit Name:
Rating:
Port Charlotte The Peat Project 

Score:
88/100 
ABV:
46%
Region:
Islay, Scotland  
Body:
Medium  
Intensity:
Medium (piercing peat in the middle) 
Texture:
Medium  
Balance:
Heavenly  
Best served:
Neat  
Theme(s):
This is a youthful, sharp and energetic that offers complex layers of sweetness pummeled by dense coastal peat; yummy! 

Tasting notes:
As the name suggests, this beauty is peated and proud of it; boasting that it is part of "the peat project". The "peat project" combines whiskies of different vintages that are basically peated Bruichladdich, the classic of which is not peated despite being from Islay. The result is a garden on fire, with floral notes burning in the smoky haze that is the coastal peat; beautiful. 

Nose: Let us return to our walks with Henry, our King Charles Cavalier, along the beach. The lush green meadows are dotted with flowers as the sweet fresh floral fragrance meets the gentle sea breeze that adds the salty earthiness of the beach. The Laddie Classic reminded me of those walks, the smell of the flowers and the beach. The Port Charlotte adds some burning peat to that, almost like a smoldering camp fire beside the beach that is nearing its end as the embers burn the dry grass that are used to fuel the flames. 

Taste: This is beautifully complex whisky, with a sharp peat explosion that is accompanied with coastal notes of saltiness and earthiness; though not too earthy and almost like a gentle spray of sea water while sitting on an old wooden pier. 

The peat offers a powerful bitter start that is dense and cigar like, but this bitterness is counteracted by sweet fruity notes of sliced green apple and preserved strawberries. This whisky is vibrant, energetic and youthful. 

Finish: The peat glows on the palate as its bitter vegetal character remains on the tongue for a long while, moderated by the sweetness that is at the heart of the Bruichladdich distilling. 
Likes:
Smooth peat magic without noticeably large ripples  

Price:
$90 (Aus)  

Bruichladdich Laddie Classic


Spirit Name:
Rating:
Bruichladdich Laddie Classic Edition 01

Score:
86/100 
ABV:
46% 
Region:
Islay, Scotland
Body:
Medium  
Intensity:
Medium (sharpens in the middle) 
Texture:
Medium-oily  
Balance:
Heavenly  
Best served:
Neat  
Theme(s):
A coastal earthiness weaves around a fresh floral bouquet that is lashed by bitter oak and the shining glow of sweet preserved fruit and lemon based bitterness that develops into coffee bean and cocoa 

Tasting notes:
From the heartland of peated whisky comes the unpeated - yes, you read correctly, peat free - Bruichladdich. How can such a thing happen? The smart folks at Bruichladdich have done lots of research into what gives whisky its flavour, and I am told they want to give the world the taste of coastal Islay but without the peat; interesting idea!

Nose: Sometimes we walk our King Charles Cavalier, Henry, along Altona Beach (Melbourne) away from the hustle and bustle and towards the "dog beach" where lush green grass and flowers dotted on the landscape meet the salty sea water bashing against the sand. This whisky reminds me of those walks: the fragrance of flowers and lush meadows provides a sweet freshness that is met with the salty earthiness of the beach. This is simply beautiful whisky on the nose. 

As the whisky rests in the glass, sweet fruit develops on the nose. The fruit is ripe and luscious, almost like a banana and banana compote with lemon myrtle; strange aromas for Scotland but it is amazing what the lashings of coastal air can bring to Islay together with the oak and its previous contents!  

Taste: The sweet syrupy compote slams against the tongue in a wave of sugary fruit that melts on the mouth like butter. Just as the whisky risks being too sweet, the spicy oak pulls in the reigns and provides s sharp cutting bitterness that is accompanied with a bright glow of sweet glazed cherry. There is a buttery taste on the finish, that rests on the base of the tongue with the sweetness and bitter burnt lemon; this is no fresh sharp lemon but dense burnt lemon and distilled like oil extract. The lemon beautifully compliments the lemon based fragrance on the nose.   

Finish: A pulsating bitterness lingers on the tongue as that creamy butter and mild glow of sweetness lingers, but the sweet glazed cherry develops into cherry jam with some cream and bitter earthy coffee beans coated with dark chocolate. The bitter oak constantly buzzes in the background. 


Price:
$90 (Aus) 

Thursday 27 June 2013

Jack Daniel's Old No 7 1980's ★

Three American Legends: My 1980's and 2013 Jack Daniel's Old No 7 sitting on the bonnet of a
1967 Ford Mustang in Melbourne, Australia
Today I turn 30! Over the last week I have made an effort to taste and review old and rare whiskies in a series I call “The Week I Turn 30”, but today is the icing on the cake and the most exciting review of an old and rare legend: a 1980’s Jack Daniel’s Old No 7 Tennessee Whiskey. 

What makes this so special is that I have unknowingly grown up with this bottle. It sat quietly in a tin box for almost three decades, neglected and ignored by my beer loving (and spirit hating) Dad; lucky me! I was very excited while rummaging through long ignored cupboards in the family home to find this bottle of Jack Daniel’s Old No 7, which, after some online research, I have traced back to the 1980’s. I was relieved to discover that bottles from the 1980’s only sell for about $120, which made my decision to open and taste this whisky much easier. 

A time capsule in a bottle, this Jack Daniel’s represents the smell and taste of American history: what Jack Daniel’s tasted like in the 1980’s when I was either an idea, born or a few years old. I always wondered why my parents and grandparents would receive bottles of whisk(e)y as gifts and never open them. It doesn't much matter now, as I am going back in time to the era of fuel inefficient cars, political incorrectness and really bad fashion; the 80's. 


What is Jack Daniels Old No 7?


Jack Daniels is a Tennessee whiskey that is charcoal mellowed and produced in Lynchberg Tennessee. It needs no introduction, but curiously it has a distinct Italian-American connection. Angelo Lucchesi was the distillery’s first salesman, and, in a fine display of dedication, Frank Sinatra was buried with a bottle of Old No 7 in 1998. 


No one really knows why Jack Daniel’s gave the Old No 7 its name, or why he chose the number 7. What is known is that the distillery continues to adhere to the same production methods that Jack Daniel himself used since winning a gold medal for his whiskey in St Louis in 1904. This whiskey has survived two world wars, the Great Depression and prohibition, and, frankly (no pun intended), it was a personal favourite of mine until overdoing it a little in college! I did not touch any whisk(e)y for many years after that night, but its legendary status pulled me back and the love affair was rekindled. 

What are the differences between the 1980’s and the 2013 bottling?


This review will parallel taste and compare this 1980’s Jack Daniel’s Old No 7 with a Jack Daniel’s Old No 7 purchased in 2013. The main differences are:
  • Alcohol volume: The 1980’s Old No 7 is bottled at 43% ABV, whereas the 2013 Old No 7 is 40% ABV. 
  • Colour: The 1980’s Old No 7 appears lighter in the bottle, as you can see in the picture. Unlike many other whiskies, Jack Daniel’s does not add colouring to their products and the colour of their whiskies are the result of aging in oak barrels; which means that the 2013 version appears to have drawn out some darker and denser colour from the wood. 
  • Smell: The 1980’s Old No 7 is softer with undertones of earthiness and warm caramel laden chocolate fudge, whereas the 2013 version is more heavily (as the colour suggests) oak influenced with richer chocolate notes and piercing spice alongside vanilla pods. 
  • Taste: The 2013 Old No 7 has a bitter note of toasted dry oak that hits the palate with a wave of sweetness that struggles to take over but never does. In contrast the 1980’s Old No 7 is less bitter and more evenly balanced at the start but offers a sudden surge of dry smoky wood that whips the palate almost unexpectedly with subtle shades of vanilla and sweetness. 
  • Finish: The 1980’s Old No 7 has a more intense finish that explodes on the palate whereas the 2013 Old No 7 has a constant presence that is moderate. 
No wonder Ole Blue Eyes (Frank Sinatra) was buried with a bottle of Old No 7 - it was seriously amazing whiskey!!!

Jack Daniel's is the stuff of legend; exceptionally good all the time. Unlike some other world leading brands, I think every bottle represents the very best that American whiskey has to offer.

Now for some more detailed tasting notes, YEE-HA!

Tasting notes

Spirit Name:

Jack Daniel’s Old No 7 (2013)

Score:
89/100
2, medal, silver icon

ABV:
40%
Region:
Tennessee, United States
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium
Texture:
Medium
Balance:
Superb
Best served:
Neat, mixed
Theme(s):
A solid smack of dry wood with some sugary sweetness fighting for its life
Tasting notes:
Nose: Slick and oily with pulsating notes of toffee and rich chocolate, there is a dry smoky wood that weaves around the corn shining deep in the heart of thids whiskey.

Taste: A moderately intense wave of dry toasted wood merges with notes of vanilla pod and sweet chocolate coated raisins as the bitterness of the cocoa recedes and allows the sugary sweetness to put up a fight that it loses before it even starts as it is dragged down and easily overpowered by the spicy and dry smoky oak.

Finish: The presence of raisin and burnt wood lingers on the tongue, with light shades of sweetness faintly glowing.
Price:
$43 (Aus), $23 (US)


Spirit Name:

Jack Daniel’s Old No 7 (1980’s)

Score:
94/100
3, medal, silver icon

ABV:
43%
Region:
Tennessee, United States
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium-high
Texture:
Medium-oily
Balance:
Heavenly
Best served:
Neat, mixed
Theme(s):
A beautifully balanced all American with a solid punch of dry toasted oak and silky smooth Sinatra notes
Tasting notes:
Nose: Candy shop sweetness wafts up from the glass with gooey caramel and toffee buzzing around with hints vanilla bean whipped cream and a glazed doughnut layered with sultana and sprinkles of licorice.

Taste: Creamy and oily on the palate, the bitter oak creates a flutter of dry smoke that is blown away by a wave of luscious vanilla layered warm chocolate fudge; the kind that is dark and therefore not too sweet. The gooey caramel sweetness then gradually submits to a whip of oak driven dryness within which golden shards of not quite burnt toffee shine.  

Finish: The bitterness lingers on the tongue with a sugary sweetness, but the experience is neither too bitter or too sweet.
Price:
$120 (approx)

Tuesday 25 June 2013

Dewar's Signature ★


Spirit Name:
Rating:
Dewar’s Signature Blended Scotch

Score:
89/100
ABV:
43%
Region:
Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium (dense with sharp sparks, lovely)
Texture:
Medium-oily
Balance:
Heavenly
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
A bouquet of fresh floral notes merge with berry laden Christmas cake with shavings of fresh lemon peel and vanilla bean; scrumptious!

Tasting notes:
Day 4 of my “The Week I Turned 30” has arrived, and I have decided to move away from the theme of old and rare – Brora, mid 1990’s Red Label and St Magdalene – to review a super premium whisky from the House of Dewar’s: Dewar’s Signature.

Dewar’s Signature is a blended Scotch whisky, which means that it has malt and grain whisky. At the heart of this blend is 27 year old Aberfeldy, a distillery from the southern Highlands of Scotland. What I particularly love about this whisky is its richness and complexity that leaps out of the glass with elegance and a very pleasing balance. Dangerously drinkable, this whisky can make a rich person poor at its price so be sure to exercise some self control people!

Nose: A bouquet of freshly cut flowers sits in the background as the aroma of Christmas cake fills the air layered with tart and sweet berries, sliced orange and vanilla bean.

Taste: This whisky offers a sharp snap of orange peel marmalade on the palate that softens into milk chocolate splashed onto fresh mandarine segments. The citrus notes progressively develop, as the fresh and gentle mandarine morph into orange just as the bitter zest dominated to once again transform into bitter burnt orange and orange essence. With a splash of water the citrus lightens to lemon zest sponge cake with some oat cake notes.  

Finish: The bitterness explodes into a dry smoke with a note of honeycomb.
Likes:
Magnificently complex with many layers to explore, beautiful balance
Price:
$249 (Aus), £205 (UK), ~$200 (US)

St Magdalene 1982 26 Year Old


Spirit Name:
Rating:
St Magdalene 1982 26 Year Old
★★★★★
Score:
86/100
ABV:
46%
Region:
Lowlands
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium
Texture:
Medium
Balance:
Excellent, but with an unfortunate bitter spell at the end
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
Lush grassy notes meet sweet pineapple and cherries as the oak kicks in to add a dry bitterness that ends with a surge of dry grass

Tasting notes:
Continuing on my “the week I turned 30” series, today I taste another endangered species: St Magdalene. Whisky from St Magdalene is particularly special because – much like Brora and Port Ellen – it was closed in 1983. So, as supply stops and consumption continues whisky from St Magdalene will continue getting rarer and rarer. I had the opportunity to taste this St Magdalene at Whisky & Alement in Melbourne, a fantastic whisky bar (especially on a not so busy weeknight) with friendly and knowledgeable staff and a welcoming ambiance.

Nose: A mild and lush “peat” lifts from the glass, which is difficult to describe but almost grassy with some dew and dampness. There is a sweetness on the nose that merges tartness and sugariness like a tin of pineapple mixed with glazed cherries. The sweetness and fruitiness develops into lemon glazed cake which counteracts the grassy and bitter oak notes.

Taste: The lush grass meets the palate with a smack of sweetness that then recedes into a radiating glow of over the top bitterness as the tinned pinapple develops into under-ripe green pineapple with the foundation of bitter oak buzzing strongly.

Finish: That lush green and fruit lingers and gently warms the palate, as the finish offers notes of flat cola with bitter lemon and the over influence of oak. The lush grass becomes very dry.  

With water: A dash of water really opens up this whisky and lightens it on the nose. The fragrance of Terry’s chocolate orange develops with some notes of ash tray and honeycomb crunchie! On the palate it remains grassy, but with a helping of vanilla that moderates the oak a little. It releases sharper and sweeter citrus notes with what I identify as lamington. The finish is also gentler, but a dull bitterness develops that destabilizes the whole ride.  

Likes:
Soft grassy notes are something different, especially as this is a Lowland whisky
Dislikes:
Oak laden bitterness on the finish
Price:
N/A

Monday 24 June 2013

Johnnie Walker Red Label mid-90's versus 2013


There has been a bottle of Johnnie Walker Red Label sitting in my Dad's liquor cabinet since the mid 1990's., so the ideal experiment for my "The Week I Turned 30" series would be to see how and if the Red Label has changed over the years. This post will parallel taste and compare the Johnnie Walker Red Label of the mid 90's to the Red Label of today (purchased in June 2013).

This experience was like smelling and tasting history; nosing and drinking a mid-90's Red label and comparing it with a 2013 Red Label showed what whisky was actually like when I was too young to drink it and it also provides a glimpse into the evolution change in character of an iconic whisky: the Red Label. I struck out the word "evolution" to make a point, because I think the Red Label has taken a few steps backwards and become less complex and less "developed".

Is there any difference?

The difference between the mid-90's Red Label and the Red Label purchased in June 2013 was evident on the first sniff, with the 2013 bottle releasing a strong new spirit stench under which the aroma of honeyed orchard fruit and the mild smell of licorice based produce (fennel, anise seed etc) shined. The mid-90's Red Label was a lot more subtle, and did not have the same overpowering new spirit stench. This allowed honey drizzled peaches and apricot to shine on a bed of grain and some vanilla bean with the pierce of dry ethanol and tart blackberries that interacted with a bag of jelly beans! Therefore, the 2013 Red Label had the overpowering gust of new spirit that seemed to strangle the other character in the whisky.

The more I nosed the mid-90's Red Label, the more in became apparent that (in my opinion) the Red Label is no longer the beautiful Scotch it once was. It makes so much sense now, why the Red Label was everywhere while I was growing up; it was pretty good whisky and great value. While I enjoyed the mid-90's Red Label very much, I did not enjoy the 2013 Red Label neat.

Spirit Name:
Rating:
Johnnie Walker Red Label (Mid 90’s)
★★★★☆
Score:
84/100
ABV:
40%
Region:
Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium
Texture:
Light
Balance:
Great  
Best served:
Neat, mixed
Theme(s):
A glimpse into the mid-90’s Red Label reveals a whisky with a subtle and buzzing sweet foundation on which diverse character sparkles
Tasting Notes:
Nose: This whisky has a beautiful and elegant nose that has a mostly gentle foundation of caramel, vanilla and dried fruit upon which glistening sugary honey, jelly bean, grain, dry ethanol and tart berry shine and provide a sharpness. The candied sweetness is diverse, like a bag of different coloured jelly beans. As the whisky rests the gooey caramel takes on the aroma of a chocolate praline with shards of crisp toffee. The slightest dry smoke also presents itself.

Taste: An immediate wave of sweet orchard fruit merges with the grain as the sweetness intensifies into licorice based black jelly bean; a sweetness that then declines and vanishes into a dry – almost faintly grassy - smoke.

Finish: The dry smokiness lingers with lolly-shop sweetness and a faint grassy earthiness (not “peaty”, more “earthy”).  




Spirit Name:
Rating:
Johnnie Walker Red Label (2013)
★★★★
Score:
75/100
ABV:
40%
Region:
Scotland
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium (higher bitterness develops)
Texture:
Light
Balance:
OK  
Best served:
Mixed
Theme(s):
The 2013 Red Label strikes with immaturity and a lingering bitterness that has at its base the stench of new spirit

Tasting Notes:
Nose: The stench of new spirit is immediately recogniseable. Within that gust of new spirit is some honeyed orchard fruit (plum and apricot in particular) with some boiled chestnut and wet dough. There are some licorice notes, though it is strangled by the smell of new spirit; the fennel and anise seed notes waft up very faintly only to be engulfed by the doughy new spirit. There is a shimmer of golden honey that develops as the whisky rests, and it shines brightly in the foreground.

Taste: A sugary sweetness hits the palate with a surge of bitterness developing; an alcoholic bitterness that buzzes on the tongue but then recedes into a candied apricot and toffee apple finish.

Finish: Bitter and sour grapes radiate on the tongue, with their acidic burn. There is a bitterness about the finish in this whisky that is oak driven and yet has all the hallmarks of immaturity; perhaps the combination of alcohol and some pretty aggressive casks.  
Price:
$30 (Aus), £20 (UK)


Sunday 23 June 2013

Brora 30 Year Old

Having a blast at the Baxter Inn, Sydney: Brora 30 Year Old in hand
My beautiful girlfriend, Greti, flew me to Sydney to celebrate my forthcoming 30th birthday. Although it was the worst possible weather in Sydney that weekend, we had an absolute blast. We stayed at the Pullman on Hyde Park, went to see the sights, did some shopping (Greti likes shopping as much, if not more, than I like whisky!) and then arrived at the Baxter Inn at around 5:15pm. It was absolutely packed, but Greti eventually pounced on some chairs and off I went to order her a Hemmingway Daiquiri and a special whisky to start off my long week of celebrations. The whisky I chose first was the Brora 30 Year Old followed by a Balvenie Roasted Malt and then an Ardbeg Alligator to finish off the evening. I remember being most intrigued by the nutty (almost roasted chestnut on dark chocolate and sweet sherry) character of the Balvenie Roasted Malt, and while the Ardbeg Alligator was great its snap of alcohol and peat was mostly on par with the other Ardbeg expressions. I also had a pint of Opera Bar Organic Pale Ale while we had lunch at the Sydney Opera House, a lovely crisp beer with lots of attitude. This review will focus on the Brora 30 Year Old, an expression I enjoyed very much but did not quite love.

So, let's kick off DAY 1 of "The Week I Turned 30". shall we...

Spirit Name:
Rating:
Brora 30 Year Old, 8th release (Bott 2010)
★★★★★☆
Score:
90/100 
ABV:
54.3%
Region:
Highlands, Scotland
Body:
Medium-full
Intensity:
Medium-high
Texture:
Medium
Balance:
Superb
Best served:
Neat
Theme(s):
Soft plumes of smoke and peat are counter-balanced by sweet fruit notes

In a nutshell:
Brora was a distillery that operated between 1819 and 1983, so it has legendary status as its supplies dwindle thanks in part to an Australian whisky blogger celebrating his birthday at the Baxter Inn, Sydney! 

Nose: The gentle aroma of peat and smoke struggles to find a commanding voice in the sweet fruity character swirling in the glass. 

Taste: The peat and smoke begins to flicker and weaken on the palate, but remains a constant theme that underlies the diverse fruit.

Finish: Fading quickly, the flavours present nothing very interesting. When sipping this whisky my reaction was: disappointed but very satisfied. After all, when a whisky has legendary status expectations are extremely high!   
Likes:
Lovely fruit notes merge with soft plumes of peat on the nose
Dislikes:
The character seems a little dull and boring
Price:
₤425