Spirit Name:
Rating:
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Score:
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88/100
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ABV:
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61.3%
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Region:
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Cornwall, England
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Body:
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Medium-dense
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Intensity:
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Medium-high
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Texture:
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Medium
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Balance:
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Heavenly
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Best served:
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Neat
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Theme(s):
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Hicks & Healey’s whiskey brings to life this almost forgotten
English biodiversity of apples with a powerful kick that would probably make Alan
Shearer proud; whether that be the humble apple in different forms (raw,
sliced, cooked) or many varieties of apple it is evident that this whiskey is
a fascinating glimpse into the complexity of Cornish apples and superb
craftwork of the distillers at Healey’s. This whiskey is a must try! You may
not like it, but I am confident that you will be very impressed with the
skill of the distiller and the unique character of this whiskey.
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Tasting notes:
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When I lived in England, my Australian taste for cold lager was slowly
replaced by a love for apple cider and warm ale. I did not much like cider
and ale at first, but the taste was slowly acquired and now my mouth
salivates at the smell of a mahogany bar of an English pub.
Healey’s is a Cornish cyder farm and it produces the Hicks &
Healey’s whiskey, a whiskey made from Cornish barley and distilled twice in
the smallest copper pot still in the country before being laid to rest for seven years in its
oak casks alongside their reserve brandies and cyder.
This is superbly crafted whisky, and it is extremely enjoyable. This
whisky can easily be misunderstood, because it does not blindly replicate a
particular flavour profile that is commonly associated with “whisky”. It
brings something new to the table. Intelligently, Healey’s have played to
their strengths and produced a whisky that oozes with the English taste of
dry apple seed cider and notes of ale; certainly an acquired taste in my
experience and while it is absolutely beautiful there may be some who need
some more visits to the pub to taste all the ciders on offer before they can
fully appreciate it.
All I need now is a Sunday roast with a Yorkshire pudding… in fact, I
can picture it now, washing it down with a dark bitter local ale and then
once the munching is over sitting back to the piercing cask strength apple rich
glow of Hick’s & Healey whiskey.
Nose: The fragrance of an apple core is first
noticeable, as apple cider shines brightly. As though a green apple as been
eaten to its core and browned slightly, there is some fresh sweetness that is
accompanied by the apple seed and fragrance of an oxidized apple core. There is a plasticine note on the nose that accompanies the alcohol, which is smooth and soft despite this whisky being at 61.3% ABV.
Taste: Incredibly sweet, it is lucky that I am a cider
lover; the symphony of apples is incredible. Raw green apples develop with
stewed apple pie and the dry fizz of apple cider, as the oak gives a mild
wood theme and a bitter English ale-like twist (there are many types of ales
in England); a nice twist given that this whiskey is distilled from a mash that is like beer but without the hops. There is an initial surge of sweetness that is then counteracted
by the most unique bitter-dry wave of wood, wood polish, and dryness.
The Healey’s 20 acre estate is scattered with about 3,000 trees which
include seven varies of native Cornish apples (such as the Katy used for
desserts or the Ashton Bitter which has, according to Healey’s, a ‘sharp
green twang’). What is fascinating is that England is home to thousands of
apple varieties, and what you see in the supermarket is likely to be only two
or maybe three of those. Hicks & Healey’s whiskey brings to life this
almost forgotten English biodiversity of apples with a powerful kick that
would probably make Alan Shearer proud; whether that be the humble apple in different
forms (raw, sliced, cooked) or many varieties of apple it is evident that
this whiskey is a fascinating glimpse into the complexity of Cornish apples and
superb craftwork of the distillers at Healey’s.
Finish: The bitter-sweet apple themed dryness lingers.
This is an example of a cider farm putting its casks to great use!
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Likes:
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Incredibly smooth for a whisky at this strength, I love the uniqueness
of the whisky and its apple theme; beautiful work.
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Dislikes/
Warning:
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Be warned, this may be shockingly sweet for some and not everyone’s cup
of tea. This whisky is to be enjoyed with an open mind and an appreciation
for creativity and difference.
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Price:
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₤175 (UK)
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Monday, 15 July 2013
Hicks & Healey Cornish Whiskey
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