Monday 30 September 2013

Courvoisier 21 Years Old ★


Spirit Name:


Spirit Type:

Courvoisier 21 Years Old
干邑 21岁

Brandy
科涅克白兰地

Score:
97/100
trophy icon

ABV:
40%
Region:
Body:
Medium-full
Intensity:
A perfect storm - soft and elegant
Texture:
Medium-creamy
Balance:
Nearest to perfect!
Best served:
Cru:
Barrel:

Neat
Grande Champagne
Troncais oak
Theme(s):
Fresh stone fruit (dark cherries, plums), preserved fruit (orange liqueur jam, cherry jam), dried fruit (sultana, dates, dried figs), tropical fruit (banana, paw paw, banana, mango), candied citrus, soft leather, herbs, tobacco, cigar box, mint, cocoa, cream, vanilla, nuts, flowers (rose petals, iris), dry wood, mild wine and muscat grapes

新鲜的核果(黑樱桃,李子),果脯(橙利口酒果酱,樱桃果酱),干果(葡萄干,红枣,无花果干),热带水果(香蕉,木瓜,香蕉,芒果),蜜饯柑橘,软皮,药材,烟草,雪茄盒,薄荷,可可,奶油,香草,坚果,花(玫瑰花瓣,虹膜),木材干燥,温和的葡萄酒和玫瑰香葡萄

Summary:
This cognac offers smooth tranquility within which a storm of super fine detail rages - the character dances with elegance and finesse and yet electrifies the taste buds with nuances of complexity. The complex fruit balances the dryness as mint and tobacco shine within layers of creaminess that soften the sparks of citrus that lie alongside nuts and sweet flowers. Napoleon and Busta Rhymes can't both be wrong, now "pass the Courvoisier"... 

Tasting notes:



Cognac that has an "XO" on the bottle indicates that the cognac is at least six years old, and should not be read to mean that all the cognac in the bottle is "extra old". Courvoisier is the very first of the major Cognac houses to maintain an internal tracking system that allows them to determine accurately the age of the eaux-de-vie. The result of over two decades of tracking is a new breed of cognac, which is at least 21 years old. This creates a cognac with elegance, finesse and a purity untainted by young eaux-de-vie. Not only does this cognac have an age statement, but all of it is from Grande Champagne - magnifique!

Established in 1809 when Napolean was Emperor of France, the house of Courvoisier was allegedly visisted by Napolean himself and to this very day Courvoisier proudly announces that it is "Le Cognac de Napoleon". Today Courvoisier is one of the four major cognac houses of France together with Hennessy, Remy Martin and Martell. 

The "alchemie" refers to the different stages of cognac production used by Courvoisier, and you can gain an insight into these steps with the following video. 



Nose: There is a piercing candied fruit sweetness about the nose that is softened by cream and balanced by cocoa and herbaceous notes. The sweetness comes in the form of preserved and tropical fruit - orange and Cointreau jam, black cherry jam, glazed oranges, banana bread and tropical fruit (mango, guava, paw paw, banana) and fresh fig. It is clear that these aromas are highly complex, and not just sweet but have elements of bitterness that provide balance. Undertones of soft calf leather develop with a cigar box, which includes the tobacco, dry paper and the wood. The sweetness that thickens into caramel and candied oranges, as lemon sponge cake develops with mixed nuts (Brazil nuts and walnuts) together with sultana and dates. All this resembles a syrup glazed pecan pie with vanilla and dried apricots. The nose is also floral, with a sweet flowery perfume forming a haze that compliments the cognac beautifully. This cognac is harmonious and offers a beautifully integrated character. 

Taste: Initially creamy, the buttery softness of this cognac elegantly coats the palate with vanilla and creme Anglais Creamy and spicy fruit loaf develops with dried fruit and nuts (darker than on the nose - dates, dried figs, raisins). Within that creamy blanket of heaven shines a herbal garden of mint and tobacco, which glow brightly and illuminate the sparks of dark chocolate and dark cherries that balance the sweeter fruit. This cognac tingles magically on the palate, leaving the bite of a cigar and dark stone fruits that flicker very mildly with wine.  

Finish: The cherries linger as the bite of a thick unlit cigar brings notes of tobacco that intermingle with cocoa and creamy vanilla

Likes:
Highly complex and beautiofully integrates, this cognac offers near pure harmony of flavours that dance on the palate with finesse 

Price:
$230 (Aus, US), £160 (UK)

Courvoisier XO Imperial ★


Spirit Name:
Spirit Type:

Courvoisier XO imperial
Score:

90/100
ABV:
40% 
Region:
Body:
Medium-light 
Intensity:
Medium-light
Texture:
Medium-oily 
Balance:
Near perfect 
Best served:
Cru:

Neat 
Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies
Theme(s):
Citrus, flowers, glazed mandarin, tiramisu, vanilla, caremisaled sugars, ginger bread, Italian amaretti biscuits, sticky date pudding, caramel, dried figs, cream, Chinotto, candy coated almonds, cocoa dusted orange, mint, jasmine, violets 
Summary:
The Courvoisier XO Imperial ignites with the temper of Napoleon, but as it rests that fury softens to subtle nuances of character led by citrus fruit and creamy caremalised dessert. The fruit counteracts the dryness to create near perfect balance that glistens with interesting notes of Italian tastes and aromas - fitting for "Napoleon's cognac", because he was born in Corsica shortly after the Kingdom of Genoa gave the island to France to settle a debt.

Tasting notes:
Courvoisier XO Imperial, in my opinion, is one of the best value cognacs on the market - subtle nuances of character dance on the tongue with the distinct bouquet and taste of 20+ year old eaux-de-vie, and all this for about half the price of other "XO" offerings of the major Cognac houses of France. Courvoisier is proud to call itself the "cognac of Napoleon", because it claims that the Emperor once visited Courvoisier. 

Courvosier appreciates that much of what we taste is influenced by the sense of smell, and it develops cognac with a focus on its bouquet. The bouquet in the Courvoisier XO Imperial is spectacular and its complexity moves to the palate as the bouquet allows some very diverse flavors to shine on the palate. 

Nose: Sharp nuances of citrus fruit glisten with caremalised sugars as notes of vanilla soften the aroma of jasmine and the spritz of fresh mandarin peel. The wood, toasted and bursting with sugars, accompanies rancio and subtle shades of red wine. The floral notes are complex, and as the whisky rests herbaceous notes of mint are softened by sweet violets and raspberry jam - so beautiful. The nose is initially vibrant and piercing  but then flattens to a calming chorus of character. This rekindles memories of home made tiramisu with mint rather than creme brulee because it does not have a heavy egg note - instead, there is cream, coffee, brandy soaked biscuits, sugar and a nice dose of temper for which Napolean - whether it is accurate or note - is famous. A childhood memory also develops - Amaretti biscuits and candy coated almonds. This is such a complex nose, morphing and developing in the glass.  

Taste: So light and gentle, the character radiates on the palate with a sense of charm - the sugars are first noticeable on the palate with glazed citrus fruit and cocoa dusted orange segments. This is so gentle and soft, a far cry from the reputation of brandy as "steaming" and a reflection that this is old eaux-de-vie. That biscuit and caramelized sugar on the nose develops into ginger bread on the palate with a surprising note of Spanish black olives in brine. The vanilla shines with lovely gooey caramel over sticky date pudding and dried figs, but the sweetness is balanced by a dryness - this is superb. This is a cognac that deserves close attention, and an entire night of uninterrupted unpacking.

Finish: The bitterness and sweetness intermingle, as the palate is kept from drying from the plump fruit that wets the palate - there is a finish of citrus with soda. Have you tried Chinotto? It is a carbonated soft drink made from the fruit of the myrtle leaved orange tree and has a citrus bitterness interlaced with sweet sugars and soda. The finish is similar, as notes of cocoa sparkle in the fruity backdrop that is counterbalanced by an oak driven dryness.

Likes:
Complex, hugely enjoyable, very smooth and superb value


Price:
$100 (Aus, US)


Sunday 29 September 2013

Maker's Mark


Spirit Name:
Spirit Type:

Maker's Mark 
Bourbon

Score:
83/100

ABV:
40% 
Region:
Kentucky 
Body:
Medium-light
Intensity:
Medium 
Texture:
Medium 
Balance:

Best served:
Age:
Notes:

Neat, mixed
About 6 years 
No rye used in mash, and instead red winter wheat is used with corn etc. 
Theme(s):
Super smooth, oak driven twang, raisin, dried fig, grain, smoothing corn, dark chocolate, mild vanilla, glazed prunes
Tasting summary:
Iconic, one glance at the square box and the red wax seal reveals leaves no question that the bottle holds Maker's Mark bourbon. Maker's Mark do not use rye in their mash, and instead together with corn etc use red winter wheat. Together with rotating the barrels to ensure each barrel is exposed to consistent temperature fluctuations throughout maturation, Maker's Mark is super smooth and consistently good. The tasting revealed a vibrant nose with the smoothing layers of corn interlaced with raisin, dried fig and vanilla. The grain is noticeable, too, musty almost. On the palate dark chocolate developed with glazed prunes and the slightest buzz of grain, and then it flattens. The finished remained for a little while, but a bitter oak driven twang dominated. Some describe Maker's Mark as "boring", but this is not true at all with this batch - Maker's Mark is super smooth with a vibrancy on the nose that flattens out on the palate with a big oak driven burst towards the middle-end. 

This is great bourbon, and for the price, well, you can't go wrong. Do not expect fireworks or mind boggling complexity, this is not what the Maker's Mark is designed to do - to blow your socks off you may need to fork out some more cash... that's just the way the cookie crumbles, or you can try Jim Beam Devil's Cut. Maker's Mark, as the above ad reads, "is what it isn't"... now that is an interesting and good point. 

Likes:
Super smooth, great choice for people who do not like rye 
Dislikes:
Flat with a bitter oak driven twang
Price:
$45 (Aus)


Saturday 28 September 2013

Johnnie Walker Blue Label (2013)


Spirit Name:
Spirit Type:

Johnnie Walker Blue Label
Blended whisky
Score:
88/100

ABV:
40% 
Region:
Scotland 
Body:
Medium 
Intensity:
Medium  
Texture:
Medium-oily 
Balance:
Superb 
Best served:

Neat 

Tasting notes:
Johnnie Walker Blue Label represents the pinnacle of the Johnnie Walker range, as it sits at the very top of the hierarchy above Platinum Label, Gold Label Reserve, Double Black, Black Label and Red Label. The Gold Label and Green Label have now been discontinued. 

Blue Label is being re-reviewed because of the phenomenon of "batch variation". This means that a whisky, year after year, may change in character because its character depends on the oak casks in which it matured and no oak cask is the same. This means that a whisky comprised of whisky from different oak casks may have different character, even if the whisky is blended to achieve a particular flavour profile. The last Blue Label I reviewed was from the late 1990's or early 2000's. This Blue Label sat on the shelves in 2013. You can find my review of the old Blue Label here. 

Johnnie Walker have done a superb job at retaining the flavour profile of the Blue Label, keeping it consistently malty with some classic House of Walker smokiness. The 2013 bottling is super smooth, and offers what the older bottling lacked: a lingering and mouth-watering finish. The old Blue Label fizzed with its finish, whereas the 2013 Blue Label ignites the palate and its character remains like a warming glow that progressively intensifies - lovely lovely lovely! The 2013 bottling. however, has a slightly less interesting nose with the peat cloaking some of that lovely maltiness I have come to adore in Blue Label. 

Nose: Malty, with some smoothing vanilla counteracting the sparks of peat and flecks of barley that ignite in the backdrop of candied fruit and mixed herbs. The peat is more pronounced in this bottling, and as noted it takes over some of the maltiness. Slightly uninteresting. 

Taste: The whisky strikes the palate with bravado, waking up the taste buds in a ride shock - that was not expected from the subtle aroma on the nose. The peat, very mild and gentle, intermingles with ripe plums and dates and the characteristic maltiness looms but never really takes hold.

Finish: Ohhh baby. This is nice whisky! The buzz of the barley and grain radiates with the fruit and shades of peat.  

Likes:
Complex, very smooth and long lingering finish when compared to older bottlings 
Dislikes:
Dull nose and unbalanced with slightly pronounced peat on the bouquet, when compared with older bottlings
Price:
$170 (Aus)

Friday 27 September 2013

Zacapa 23 Solera




Spirit Name:
Spirit Type:

Ron Zacapa 23 Solera 
Rum
Score:
88/100 

ABV:
40%
Region:
Guatemala  
Body:
Medium-full 
Intensity:
Medium 
Texture:
Rich
Balance:
Superb
Best served:
Cask:
Age:
Neat
Bourbon and sherry casks
6-23 years

Theme(s):
Molasses, dried fruit, coffee crystals, brown sugar, chocolate, herbs, hazelnuts, toasted almonds, barley sugar  

Tasting notes:
Zacapa 23 easily catches the eye with its bottle design, and for the savvy spirits drinker who knows their stuff it also has a bit of prestige - after all, it is celebrated by many as one the world's finest rums. It is not 23 years old in the English sense, but instead it uses the number 23 on its bottle to show that it is comprised of rum aged 6-23 years using the solera system. 

Nose: Immediately, the nose is met with candied fruit and brown sugar as the molasses takes hold with coffee sugar crystals. You know the kind, the sugar used for coffee that has the faint aroma of coffee.  It is also slightly nutty, like hazelnuts. 

Taste: Sweet, the big and bold molasses is energetic and thin at first. The thin layer of sweetness that intensifies as the sugars develop into dried fruit including dates and the inside of dried figs. The slightest hint of chocolate also develops with herbaceous notes of tobacco as the nuts become toasted and fume up with barley sugar.

Finish: The thick rich sugars linger with some cocoa and the twang of tea leaves.  


Price:
$90 (Aus), $35 (US)

Virgin Bourbon



Spirit Name:
Spirit Type:

Virgin Bourbon
Bourbon
Score:
76/100 

ABV:
50.5% 
Region:
Kentucky, United States 
Body:
Medium
Intensity:
Medium  
Texture:
Medium  
Balance:
OK 
Best served:
Age:

Mixed
7 years 
Theme(s):
Astringent, woody, bitter, alcoholic, raisin, fig cake, vanilla 
Summary:
Astringent and mouth-drying, a burst of alcohol and wood introduces a cutting bitterness that is too much for the sweetness to handle - enjoyable bourbon with great mixing potential, not much of a virgin with its dominating bite!... behave

Tasting notes:
Virgin bourbon is produced by the Heaven Hill distillery mainly for markets outside the United States, but a careful internet search reveals that this is available in parts of the USA for about $12. It sells in Australia for about $42, at Liquorland in fact.

Nose: Big chocolate, corn and raisin notes waft up with flecks of grain that dance around layers of caramel and wet dough. That wet dough character begins to dominate as the whiskey rests in the glass. flattening out the experience with some vanilla. 

Taste: Skewed to the bitter woody side initially with mouth-drying astringency, some sweetness develops in the form of syrup and sultana but the alcohol and oak is simply too much for it to handle. There is an off note here, quite pronounced, that nags the palate - enough already! It is astringent, alcoholic, woody, and almost too spicy. The sweetness is there, but hard to identify - a $12 bourbon, eh? Makes sense now.   

Finish: The mouth-drying middle softens towards the finish, adding some mild vanilla notes with fig cake.  

Likes:
Big, strong and bold
Dislikes:
Bitterness
Price:
$12 (US), $42 (Aus)

Tuesday 24 September 2013

Baker's Bourbon


Spirit Name:
Spirit Type:

Baker’s Bourbon
Bourbon
Score:
88/100
2, medal, silver icon

ABV:
53.5%
Region:
Kentucky, United States
Body:
Medium-full
Intensity:
Medium-high
Texture:
Velvety and syrupy
Balance:
Near perfect
Best served:
Age:

Neat
7 years
Theme(s):
Licorice, peppermint, fisherman’s friend, corn, rye, velvety, soft yet powerful, sour cream, cocoa, caramel, vanilla, pastry, polished wood, oak, nuts, dark dried berries, sour cherries, smoky oak
Summary:
Baker’s Bourbon shines with Southern charm and darn good manners, with a silky smooth texture and delightful balance. Hidden deep within, though, is a temper that, when unleashed, releases fireworks of fruit, caramel, vanilla, grain, pastry and a smoky haze of Kentucky magic – this is seriously beautiful bourbon.

Tasting notes:
Baker’s Bourbon is park of Jim Beam’s small batch collection, and it takes its name from the grand nephew of Jim Beam. The valvetty texture of Baker’s Bourbon may be attributed not only to seven years of maturation, but also the use of a special strain of jug yeast that has been used by the Beam family for over 60 years.

Nose: Sharp notes of licorice and peppermint fisherman’s friends pierce the nose, but just enough to let the sparks of rye and soft corn bread to shine. As the whiskey rests in the glass, the oak becomes more pronounced with notes of cocoa and the mild aroma of sour cream or yogurt softens the flecks of grain that glint in the backdrop of gooey caramel and vanilla layered over rum and raisin. The polished wood of library desks wafts up. This is powerful and has a lively presence in the glass, fascinating bourbon!

Taste: A sweet surge of maple syrup texture floods the palate with charred oak and a granular vanilla pastry with alcohol preserved prunes, mixed nuts (pine nuts and almonds in particular) and banana. The bitterness and sweetness intensify in sync, and the progression of flavours never becomes unbalanced – just as the bitter and dry oak begins to dominate, the sweet raisin and corn acts as a counterbalance. This is beautiful bourbon.  

Finish: Dried berries and sour cherries linger on the palate with the hazy smoke of dry oak, and within the fumes shines subtle nuances of pastry, walnuts and vanilla. Spicy, the finish lasts a decent while and progressively lessens into a delicious vapour of smoke – beautiful!
Price:
$70 (Aus), $45-$50 (US)


Booker's Bourbon ★


Spirit Name:
Spirit Type:

Booker's Bourbon
Bourbon
Score:
91/100
3, medal, silver icon

ABV:
64.5%
Region:
Kentucky, United States
Body:
Medium-full
Intensity:
High
Texture:
Medium-buttery
Balance:
Superb
Best served:
Age:
Notes:

Neat, block of ice, with water... "any damn way you like!" 
6-8 years 
Uncut, unfiltered and straight from the barrel 
Theme(s):
Powerful, cask strength English style rum, coffee bean, brown sugar, vanilla, smoky, yellow plum, Earl Grey, peppermint tea, cocoa, oak, green apple (toffee)
Summary:
Be prepared for a powerful kick of a selection of Kentucky's finest. This whiskey offers a Chuck Norris fist full of rye and corn, as coffee bean, tea and brown sugar is smoothed and softened by shades of buttery vanilla that evapourate into a smoky haze and lead to a dry, yet beautiful balanced, finish of astringent fruit and sweet creaminess - this is a violent onslaught of Texas Ranger proportions, sip with caution or wear a mouth guard. 

Tasting notes:
Booker's bourbon is part of the Jim Beam small batch collection, which comprises of Booker's, Baker's, Basil Hayden's and Knob Creek (Small Batch with Port added is also available). This collection is a step up from the classic Jim Beam white label, and a stand out of the collection is the Booker's - a powerful "barrel proof" bourbon bottled at around 60-65% ABV and perfect for a powerful kick of a selection of Kentucky's finest. 

Booker's bourbon takes its name from Booker Noe, a descendant of Jacob Beam himself and the father of current president of Jim Beam Fred Noe. Apart from an appreciation for bourbon, something I share with the late Booker Noe is an (acquired) taste for uncut and unfiltered whisk(e)y - they call it true "barrel proof" in the United States and "cask strength" everywhere else. This is the first bourbon to be bottled straight from the barrel, and it is inspired by a 200 year old tradition.


Booker Noe tasting Booker's

In the below video Fred Noe discusses and tastes the small batch collection.  


The small batch collection aims to give consumers more complexity and character than the standard Jim Beam white label, and in this regard it is a resounding success! 

Nose: An immediate thunder-strike of wholesome all American bourbon goodness hits the nose. The rounding sweetness of the corn smooths the sparks of spice from the rye, as the grain wrestles each other in an entertaining but elegant show. The nose is tannic, as the crisp oak snaps with chocolate and tea - Earl Grey and peppermint tea. Mild notes of vanilla also develop on the nose, with a dry apple cider vinegar and yellow plum astringency morphing into green apple (toffee) and powdered milk. This is possibly one of the most complex bourbon noses I have encountered. 

Taste: That thunder-strike of American fury also proceeds to the palate, like a smack in the mouth by Chuck Norris - Walker Texas Ranger! It is furious yet surprising elegant and buttery, The alcohol ignites on the palate, very much like a cask strength English style pot still rum, and the flavours of vanilla, oak, coffee beans, cocoa and brown sugar radiate on the palate. This is powerful and mouth drying, but with enough sweetness to ward off the prolonged astringency. 

Finish: Explosive, the dry oak and spicy rye dry the palate with sweet shimmers of brown sugar resting at the bottom of a half consumed espresso with a drop of buttery cream - beautiful. 

Likes:
Complex, elegant, powerful and what bourbon should be - uncut and unfiltered. 


Price:
$89 (Aus), $60-$70 (US)