Starward whisky

Score: 80/100

ABV: 43% 
Origin: Australia
initially(Aus)

Austalian whisky has certainly taken the world by storm in recent years, and one of the newest distilleries in Australia is New World Distillery located in Melbourne, right near   Essendon airport. New World Distillery produces Starward whisky which is now available at Dan Murphy’s for around $80 – a good price for an Australian whisky because most retail for in excess of $100.  This post follows a re-tasting of Starward, having first tasted it over a year ago. 

The idea of maturing whisky in oak barrels is to smooth out the rough edges of the new make spirit and add flavour to it, through what is in effect filtration through oak (because the pores in oak soak up the whisky, treat it and spit in back out). This takes time, and a whisky should draw out all the lovely flavour compounds in oak without becoming dominated by the wood or tasting woody. The whisky should ideally be balanced, allowing all components of the whisky - the distillery character in the distillate, oak flavour compounds, wood, previous contents of the oak etc - to play their part. Sometimes, one component dominates. In the case of Starward, in my opinion the wood dominates. 

In my opinion Starward whisky offers a fruity distillate with lashes of barley, banana lip gloss and fortified wine inspired wood notes that radiate dark chocolate but it smells and tastes woody and dominated by wood and fortified wine, not mature. The wood seems to sit over the other components, holding them back and preventing them from shining more fully. The components also seem poorly integrated. For me, it is unbalanced. Granted, it is quite a unique whisky being aged in Melbourne and in Apera casks (until 2010, Australian sherry). However, for $80, this particular batch of Starward (purchased around Christmas 2013) was a disappointing buy because it is so woody. Batches do change, however, and I am looking forward to tasting the most recent batch of Starward soon to see if the wood dominance has receded to allow the whisky to take on a more balanced - and in my opinion much more palatable - character. 

Malt Mileage has received a number of communications from Starward which aim to explain why the whisky has a woody character etc. This does not change how Starward tastes to me: woody, not mature. I love all kinds of whiskies - peaty, full-flavoured, spicy, fruity, young, old, those with lots of tails or nice clean spirits - so long as they are balanced and not dominated by one component of the whisky. In the case of Staward, it tastes dominated by the wood. 

For more information on whisky production and maturation please see: Malt Mileage Guide to Spirit Making. 

Sullivan's Cove French Oak HH0423 ★

Name: Type:	Sullivan's Cove French Oak HH0423 Single malt
Score:	95/100
ABV:	47.5%
Region:	Tasmania, Australia
Video review:
Tasting notes:	This whisky is drawn from cask HH0423, which was made of French oak and previously held fortified wine. This whisky is balanced, elegant yet assertive with beautifully integrated flavours showcasing dense Christmas cake, malt loaf, dark chocolate, caramel, sticky date pudding, surges of barley and a rounded warning glow on the finish especially of ginger bread, mild menthol and sweetened pickled spice. Nose: Lashes of barley are softened by layers of caramel, sticky date pudding and hints of vanilla spiced English style pot still rum.  Flecks of cocoa and freshly polished wood balance against that sweetness, which begins to thicken into dark chocolate, rich dense fruit packed Christmas cake and shards of toffee with a slice of malt loaf. The bright caramel and vanilla infused sticky date pudding flickers on and off randomly, giving way to the other character then returning at unexpected times with the occasional sprig of mint and burst of menthol. Such a complex bouquet, and one that radiates all the classic aromas of ex-fortified wine matured whisky with a distinctive Sullivan's Cove twist.   Taste: Thick, mouth-coating, viscous and rich.  This whisky offers a beautiful balance. The nose suggests sweetness will flood the palate, but once this whisky hits the tongue the flavours balance out -.the initial burst of winy sugars are moderated by the oak which are then whipped into line by the flash of barley. An initial wave of thick honey, caramel and vanilla cake merges with dried dark fruit (dates, raisins, fig), and as the whisky rests on the palate the sugars recede into malt loaf with mild hints of filtered coffee and the buzz of barley which is accompanied by dense dark chocolate coated Christmas cake that is packed with dried fruit.  Finish: The finish is long and progressively showcases sweet rounded spiciness. Ginger bread and mild menthol drops glow on the palate with very mild notes of sweetened picked ginger, but acting as a counterbalance to that spicy sweet “heat” on the tongue are soothing waves of vanilla and that BIG, RICH, DENSE Christmas cake that bursts with cocoa and cereal notes.
Price:	£90 (UK), $137 (Aus)

Sullivan's Cove American Oak HH537 ★

Spirit Name: Spirit Type:	Sullivan's Cove American Oak HH537 Single malt
Score:	90/100
ABV:	47.5%
Region:	Tasmania, Australia
Body:	Medium-full
Intensity:	Medium
Texture:	Silky
Balance:	Superb
Best served: Cask:	Neat American oak
Theme(s):	Sweet winy theme on the palate with mixed berries, vanilla, spice and a drying finish with a dry herbaceous twist
Thoughts:	This single cask offering from Sullivan's Cove is very easy drinking whisky and extremely enjoyable. Initially skewed to the sweet side with a burst of winy themed fruit, it then balances out with a drying finish and very spicy/dry herbaceous twist. I have been slightly disappointed with previous offerings from Sullivan's Cove, but the HH537 hits the nail on the head in terms of enjoy-ability and distinctiveness. It also explains why this Tasmanian distillery is making a bigger splash in the whisky world with each passing year.
Blind tasting notes:	Nose: Light, fruity (apple, green pear), delicate and floral with hints of chocolate (dark chocolate with mint comes in waves), vanilla fudge, caramel, sweet watermelon and raspberry infused white wine - strange how some whiskies share a similar bouquet to some wines, but this offers dry white wine on the nose with a herbaceous twist with mixed berries and oozing vanilla. The herbaceous twist is pretty fascinating actually, with dried parsley and oregano coming in flashes with wood spices (nutmeg especially) and wet bark/forest undergrowth.   Taste: The sugars hit the palate and then die down as the oak acts as a counterweight to the sweetness which gradually recedes into a drying finish. This whisky is such a curiosity. The wine theme continues on the palate, but it is much sweeter and resembles moscato or a noble Riesling with spearmint and mild notes of vanilla, cloves, cardamon, nutmeg and cinnamon. The wine theme represents a fruitiness often found in white wine, with citrus notes for example accompanying the berries - this is very interesting whisky! The herbaceous notes on the nose have fallen away, and on the palate the spices take over.   Finish: Sweet pear cider with a continuing white wine theme continues with the spices gradually taking on that dried herb theme on the nose.  Would I have another dram? Yes. Would I buy a bottle? Yes.
Likes:	Unique, spicy/herbaceous twist, sweet yet drying
Price:	$130 (Aus)

Tasmanian VIP Party for Taste of Melbourne feat. Lark Whisky (13 November 2013)

This evening we had the pleasure of attending the Tasmanian Pavilion VIP Party for the Taste of Melbourne, which will take place between 14 to 17 November 2013 at Albert Park. 

Tasmania?

Tasmania is an apple shaped island that lies off the southeastern tip of Australia. It was once home to the now extinct Tasmanian tiger and now the endangered Tasmanian devil, and it has for as long as I can remember been the Australian heartland of oysters, salmon and brie. The VIP event this evening was designed to show off what Tasmania has to offer.

The VIP event?

The VIP event this evening showcased produce from Tasmania, a pristine part of the world which I have seen for myself having worked in both Launceston and Hobart - just imagine crisp, fresh, lush, green and clean! With that territory comes some delicious produce, and this evening we mingled with a number of business owners and tasted the delights of Tasmania – oysters (natural, tempura etc), salmon, white wine and red wine (pinot noir), sparkling wine, beer, wagyu, beef tartare, lamb belly, apple and pear cider and, of course, Tasmanian single malt whisky. The island even produces whisky cured Tasmanian salmon, which is marinated in Lark whisky for two days - it is packed with flavour with sweet zing and a salty kick. 

Lark Whisky

Chatting with Bill Lark at the VIP launch event

Bill Lark is hailed as the "godfather of Australian whisky", having started the Lark distillery in 1992. Apart from being the trailblazer of the Australian whisky renaissance (and a very friendly person!), Bill is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about whisky. He is keen to give the world the finest quality Tasmanian whisky. That's TASMANIAN whisky. Sure, Scotch whisky is sublime when made correctly but the Tasmanian barley and unique climate of Tasmania offers something distinctly, well, Tasmanian! From what I tasted on the evening, the Lark distillery is certainly hitting the mark with its 46% ABV (Cask No 393, Port Matured) single malt whisky - big rich fruit cake notes with dark cherries, chocolate and heavy in port on the nose, lashing the palate with the distinct whip of Tasmanian barley (I will not review this whisky here as I was chatting while tasting it, but the character of the whisky was beautiful!).   

Thank you to all who made this possible! We had a wonderful evening. 

Bakery Hill Peated Cask Strength ★

Whisky:	Bakery Hill Peated Cask Strength
Score:	92/100
ABV:	60.002%
Region:	Victoria, Australia
Body:	Medium
Intensity:	High (not as piercing as the classic)
Texture:	Medium
Balance:	Superb
Best served:	Neat
Theme(s):	This fairy tale involves Australian peat and creamy layers of complex fruit living happily ever after under the thunderous clouds of spicy oak which also sprays down a gentle salty rain. It is complimented with notes of salted pistachio and the bite of anise seed; breathtaking stuff and a work of art by David Baker! This "world whisk(e)y" now joins the league of some others in my "Top Spirits" because in my view it offers a magical complexity, superb quality and a truly distinctive Australian whisky experience.
Tasting notes:	Nose: This is a very mild, almost unnoticeable, peat on the first sniff. It is there, but hardly plays a strong role as some notes of freshly cut dry grass mingle with stone fruit (apricot and plum in particular). Let the whisky rest in the glass, and the peat develops a little more potency... but not much. I would describe this whisky as lightly peated as it delivers a fruity heart with a peat that gets stronger and stronger with each nosing. The distinct mild peat, a freshly cut dry grass with an earthy aspect, merges nicely with the alcohol and offers some licorice and under-ripe blackberries. A few drops of water releases the magic. The sweetness of banana chips fill the glass with creamy white chocolate as anise seed adds an earthiness and mild licorice. The sweetness of freshly picked berries develops as the grain from the distillate and creamy alcohol shines through a herbaceous fog of grass and sweet fruit notes. Just as the whisky seems to settle, it performs a final twist in its stellar performance releasing bread and butter pudding as the grainy bread mingles with sweet sultana and butter. There are few peated whiskies that release a nose as complex as this one. Pure magic.  Taste: The peat is much more noticeable on the palate, as a big surge of lush and dry grass hits the palate with a burst of yellow plum picked from the tree too soon; there is some bitterness and sourness that counteracts the notes of sweetness that develop in the middle of the tasting. The peat lingers on the base of the tongue with some grassy notes; typically dry and Australian.  The oak is spicy and the creaminess fades to dry burnt grass with shimmers of sweet candied plums. The most interesting note is the nuttiness of this whisky, which resembles salted pistachio and the bite of anise seed.  Finish: Dry grass lingers on the palate with a surge of bitterness that retreats and gives way to shimmers of fruity sweetness. The distinct sweetness of toffee remains with praline and hints of something medicinal; perhaps the unique peat interacting with the alcohol.
Likes:	Get to know this whisky and be prepared to be blown away. Be patient and savour it with a few drops of water.
Price:	$130 for 500ml (Aus)

Timboon Cask Strength 64.7% ★

Spirit Name:	Timboon Cask Strength
Score:	91/100
ABV:	64.7%
Region:	Victoria, Australia
Body:	Full
Intensity:	Medium-high
Texture:	Medium
Balance:	Heavenly
Best served:	Neat
Theme(s):	While the 40% ABV Timboon was the "Mad Dog" Morgan of whisky with its friendliness and sparks of rage, the cask strength Timboon, to keep the bushranger theme, is definitely the Ned Kelly of Whisky: it bursts out iron plated and with guns blazing, hitting the right notes with each blast. An immediate firestorm of dense Port and piercing creamy alcohol electrifies the taste buds with the buzz of malt; an energy that develops into dark chocolate layered over raisin dense Christmas cake as the snap of dry wood adds some spice and leaves the palate with a smoky haze of Port stained wood tannins while the earthy bite of wood spices flood in and out like a gentle tide.
Tasting notes:	Move over Tasmania. First it was Starward and Bakery Hill and now it is Timboon that confirms to me that Victoria is fast becoming the new heartland of Australian whisky. It may be the four seasons in one day, the extreme weather fluctuations or a magic spell, but the people at Starward, Bakery Hill and Timboon appear to have attracted the favour of the oak gods as their superbly crafted distillate matured in what are clearly high quality casks. All this means that what we have in Victoria is a re-birth of the whisky industry, a renaissance from the old days of illicit "new milk" and "mountain dew" that used to trickle down in the 1890's to quench the insatiable Australian thirst for booze.  Timboon Cask Strength boasts an elegant maturity and youthful aggression that makes it, in my opinion at least, one of the very best "world whiskies" (from outside Scotland, Ireland or the US) I have tasted. This whisky also has a genuine uniqueness and originality about its character that in my view is in the same league as two other exceptionally crafted non-Scotch whiskies: Kavalan Solist Sherry Cask and Hicks and Healey's Cornish Whiskey.  "World whisky" tends to be quite young and, unfortunately in my experience, much of it is tainted with the undesirable aspects of new spirit. The Timboon Cask Strength has none of this, and it radiates with the crisp flecks of malt within its Port rich fiery core. One possible reason for the rapid maturation of the spirit may be that the area around Timboon in Victoria reached 43°C in January, which explains a lot about weather patterns during the time this whisky matured in country Victoria; weather patterns that may have, I imagine, caused the oak pores to expand and contract more often than in other regions with more stable weather thereby allowing lots of interaction between the oak and the spirit.  Do not let the age of this whisky fool you, because the distiller at Timboon has absolutely nailed this one. Congratulations Tim, a job very well done.    Nose: Rich dashes of sweet Port intermingle with dry oak tannins as the gust of raisin dense Christmas cake and dark chocolate carry granular grain and the gentle glow of the distillate. The distillate continues to retain its heart of earthy grain, but without the undesirable aspects that are commonly associated with new spirit. As the whisky rests dried fruit develops, in particular dried fig and banana chips, and a luscious creaminess fills the glass. This is a Christmas cake layered with shavings of dark chocolate, dried fig and dashes of Port. Within that foundation are flashes of something different with each nosing, banana chips, crushed mint and an alcohol drenches orange dusted with cocoa.  Taste: An immediate surge of bitter dryness floods into the palate, stinging with the bite of creamy alcohol, the burst of dry wood and the sweet moderating force of sugary sultana that carry the Port stained character of wood tannins. The sultana develops bitterness, morphing into raisins and then dried fig as dates linger with the spicy wood.  Finish: The smoky haze of grape tannins and the bite of earthy anise seed lingers, with the gentle glow of the grainy distillate shining within the lingering Port, now dry and steaming off the tongue as the aroma of nutmeg and bark spices moves from the nose to the palate.
Tasted: Likes:	2 Aug 2013, 4 Aug 2013 Powerful and supremely complex, this masterstroke is also incredibly smooth for a whisky bottled at 64.7% ABV. It offers rich Port stained wood tannins and the snap of an angry Australian tiger snake.
Warning:	Please be wary of the alcohol volume of this whisky, and note that it is quite dry and piercing at first.
Price:	$195 (Aus)

Visit Timboon Railway Shed in Victoria, Australia:

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Sullivan's Cove American Oak HH0211 and HH130

Spirit Name: Rating:	Sullivan's Cove American Oak (HH0211) ★★★★★☆
Score:	91/100
ABV:	47.5%
Region:	Tasmania, Australia
Body:	Medium
Intensity:	Medium
Texture:	Medium
Balance:	Heavenly
Best served:	Neat
Theme(s):	This beauty makes the other Sullivan's Cove seem clumsy, with its refined elegance and heavenly balance which offers no big ripples; just sipping pleasure with a lovely citrus theme interlaced with chocolate fudge cake  and helpings of vanilla
Tasting notes:	Put in the barrel on 10/03/2000 and bottled on 10/01/2013, this whisky offers a citrus theme alongside bitter oak and showcases a mature whisky bursting with complexity and fresh vibrancy.  Nose: Fresh and crisp, this whisky offers crushed lemon leaves with Terry's chocolate orange and nutmeg coated dark chocolate fudge cake. The oak influence is beautiful, with spicy notes intermingling with the sweet fruity heart; nutmeg and cloves in particular as notes of vanilla smooth the flecks of barley that radiate from the bright distillate shining with its delicate fruitiness (green mango, ripe banana, paw paw). The sweetness is also herbaceous and complex, like manuka honey and the slightest shimmers of maple.  Taste: The lemon leaves on the palate morph into varied citrus fruits, with orange and grapefruit rind taking a leading role. There is a dry bitterness and sourness that hits the palate with bitter dry wood and the sweet shimmer of toffee alongside a distinct bitter-sweetness; almost like lime in bourbon and cola. The entry is smooth and deliciously vibrant, with an intensity that builds on the palate and retains impeccable balance: a haze of oak laden smoke carries the bourbon cask influence that intermingles with the sweet distillate. Sensational work by Sullivan's Cove, to produce a whisky that is crisp, vibrant, youthful and yet complex.   Finish: A sugary sweetness remains on the tongue with the bitter citrus theme that draws in the lovely oak. This beauty makes the other Sullivan's Cove expressions almost seem clumsy.
Price:	$130 (Aus)

Spirit Name: Rating:	Sullivan's Cove American Oak (HH130) ★★★★☆
Score:	83/100
ABV:	47.5%
Region:	Tasmania, Australia
Body:	Medium
Intensity:	Medium-high (big sweet note at the start)
Texture:	Medium
Balance:	Good
Best served:	Neat
Theme(s):	Yogurt coated raisins with bourbon theme but less intense and offering its own distinct style as the spices develop with the distillate
Tasting notes:	Put in a barrel on 28/01/2000 and bottled on 14/10/2013, this whisky offers a bourbon based theme but with a flavour profile with notes that are distinctly Sullivan's Cove HH130!  Nose: Creamy berry fruit yogurt is noticeable with shavings of lemon zest and white chocolate praline layered with crushed cinnamon sticks. The sweetness and creaminess develops into yogurt raisins, as a sugary sweetness is intertwined with a milk based sourness and layered with caramel. The yogurt resembles the sweeter variety or the yogurt coated nuts/fruit.   Taste: Sweet! Wonderfully sweet, reminding me of a great American bourbon but without the burst of dry bitter toasted wood. Toffee develops on the palate, as it releases its burnt bitterness and a wave of buttery creaminess that quickly vanishes into a cloud of dry wood. This whisky is sharp and crisp rather than luscious and oily, and its flavours energetic and thin rather than dense and rich.  Finish: A lingering dry bitterness lingers with the spicy oak putting on quite a (late) show! Glad it decided to join the party.
Dislikes:	Super sweet entry, but the palate soon adjusts
Price:	$130 (Aus)

Bakery Hill Classic 46%and Classic Cask Strength

Whisky: Rating:	Bakery Hill Double Wood 46% ★★★★☆
Score:	84/100
ABV:	46%
Region:	Victoria, Australia
Body:	Medium
Intensity:	Medium
Texture:	Medium
Balance:	Good
Best served:	Neat
Theme(s):	Nutmeg weaves around honeyed dried apricots as bitter alcohol adds a bitter cloud that evapourates
Tasting notes:	Nose: The aroma of nutmeg sprinkled over over ripe apricot is first noticeable with a mild hint that this whisky could have used a bit more time in the barrel. The new spirit is a presence in the glass, almost doughy, but the sugary fruit adds some nice vitality with the alcohol.  Taste: An immediate surge of bitterness takes hold, not quite oak dominated but more resembling the bitterness of alcohol. Some of notes of creamy porridge emerge with wisps of dry smoke and dried apricot drizzled with some honey. There are sparks of nutmeg and spicy oak.  Finish: The finish is moderate with a lingering dryness lifting off the base of the tongue as a dull bitterness replaces the vibrant dried fruit sweetness.
Likes:	Nice sweet complexity with decent spiciness
Dislikes:	Bitter notes, and this whisky seems a little immature on the nose
Price:	$100 for 500ml (Aus)

Whisky: Rating:	Bakery Hill Classic Cask Strength  ★★★★
Score:	79/100
ABV:	60.1%
Region:	Victoria, Australia
Body:	Medium
Intensity:	High
Texture:	Light-medium
Balance:	OK
Best served:	Neat
Theme(s):	A dry burst of alcohol is accompanied with tart fruit and a similar alcoholic fume of a cask strength British style pot still rum
Tasting notes:	Nose: Strangely conjuring memories of chlorinated swimming pools, the alcohol spearheads the assault with dry ethanol alongside dark but tart berry fruits and a sweet burst of tinned apricots in syrup.  Taste: A big burst of dry alcohol smacks against the palate. The theme  in this whisky, I think, is a tart fruitiness that is lacking in a much needed sweetness to balance the experience. The taste of this whisky seems to be dominated by the alcohol, which adds a dry bitterness and seems to overpower the influence of the oak.  Finish: The finish is dry and, strangely, very similar to a cask strength British style pot still rum!
Likes:	I actually enjoyed the dry finish
Dislikes:	The alcohol seems much too dominant
Price:	$130 for 500ml (Aus)